6 July 2025 |
Michael Rider’s debut highlighted past, present, and future.
The last time Celine staged a full runway show complete with guests was back in February 2023 for their fall 2023 menswear collection. Hedi Slimane, who helmed the brand at the time, pivoted to short films and eschewed in-person events. But two-ish years later, there’s a new creative director, Michael Rider, and with that comes a return to a more traditional presentation format for Celine spring 2026. Held at the brand’s Paris headquarters on the eve of the couture shows, guests entered to see a giant foulard hung across the atrium. Below, seats were arranged to resemble the Triomphe logo, a hint that while Rider may be new, there would still be a through line from past to present.
That doesn’t come as a surprise to anyone who has been following Rider’s career trajectory. From his early years working under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga to time spent at Celine during the Phoebe Philo years to his most recent post at Ralph Lauren, the designer is well aware of the responsibilities of working for a brand with a rich history. And this debut is not just a homecoming, but also a chance to expand upon the codes of his predecessors. Per the letter written by Rider prior to the show, his return to Celine comes at a time when he believes the brand stands for quality, timelessness, and style. In his eyes, this 72-look co-ed debut would be filled with clothing that speaks to the wearer’s life. It should mark a particular place in time yet also have a sense of past, present and future.
The opening look spoke to that sentiment. Featuring slim jeans and an askew, oversized blazer, it was clear that Rider wasn’t ready to throw out Slimane’s established silhouettes. Rather, he acknowledged the past and then launched into his version of the future. For every skinny trouser there were also roomier alternatives as well. Case in point the culottes that immediately followed the first look. Worn with a cardigan and jumble of jewelry, the loose silhouette continued the sportswear narrative. And speaking of sportswear, there was plenty of it from breezy silk shirts tucked into chinos to oversized rugby shirts to the smattering of tees and sweatshirts.
Given Rider’s resume, you also see bits of his prior roles seeping into his current gig. There were the harem trousers that bring to mind Ghesquiere’s time at Balenciaga. A ankle grazing patchwork floral skirt worn with a blazer accented with a quirky foulard will satisfy the Philo fans. And what could be more indicative of his time at Ralph Lauren than a red, white, and blue play on classic suiting that featured torn jeans?
Beyond sportswear, evening wear has now become a part of the Celine DNA. Under Rider that includes the requisite mini dresses but also longer, voluminous silhouettes like a puffed sleeve gown or a sparkling crochet number. Regardless of the shape, the palette remains firmly grounded in stark shades of black and white. It’ll be interesting to see who will be wearing these styles on the red carpet. With a front row that boasted the likes of Alanis Morisette, Naomi Watts, and brand ambassador Suzy Bae, it’s safe to say the Rider’s Celine woman also spans past, present, and future.
